White Bird, ID

Tom and Marianne Lawrence

In the morning, Marianne made a wonderful breakfast of blintzes, pancakes, muffins, fresh fruit, bacon and eggs, juice, and home blended tea. Tom permitted me the honor of asking the Lord’s blessing on our meal.

A wonderful Bed and Breakfast Spread, even though it was just me.

I decided to retape my handlebars that morning, so I wasn’t ready to leave until 8:30. As it had been drizzling all morning, Tom and Marianne asked if I wouldn’t want to stay another day. They were such great company, it was hard to decline, but I did, and I reluctantly started off again.

There was a moderate rain coming down, but I decided to go, anyway.
Still raining, and still way before lunch. This turned out to be my last picture of the day.

For the next two hours or so, I sloshed through cold, driving rain on a roller coaster road. I looked down at my thermometer and saw that it read 48 degrees. Of course, the wind-chill on a soaked body made it a bit cooler. I stopped at Pinehurst to warm myself by the fire in a country store. That was a mistake, as it was twice as cold when I got on the road again. After that, I didn’t stop until lunch.

Riggins was my lunch stop. The lady at the restaurant said that a couple had passed through two days before, a couple whose description matched Stephanie and Stewart perfectly. Apparently, Stephanie needed to pick up General Delivery at White Bird. Inspiration! Maybe I could catch them.

It was sunny for a while along the Salmon River gorge as I continued on, but I could see the blackness in the distance. Within minutes, the full fury of the storm crashed into me. I clocked the headwinds at 15-20 mph, using the ride-in-reverse-direction-until-dead-air technique. That wasn’t the bad part. The rain didn’t come down in drops, or even sheets. It felt as if someone had turned a firehose on my face. That wasn’t the bad part. Then the hail started. That was the bad part. There were no trees, not even rock overhangs for shelter. I had to keep going. If I stopped, I would face hypothermia.

Several miles down the road, I took shelter at Kilgore’s Salmon River Fruit Company, a roadside stand. My entire body was cherry red from hail stings. I removed my wet shirt and tried to dry myself off as best I could with a saturated towel. After consuming about two pounds of fruit, I was ready to go again. By then, the rain had reduced to a heavy downpour.

Once again, I had warmed myself, and the rain felt painfully cold as I started again. I pedaled hard, hoping to get warm soon.

I had logged 87 miles on my cyclometer when I finally reached White Bird. Stewart and Stephanie were not there. No problem. I wouldn’t expect them to sit around for a day doing nothing.

Sorry, no more pictures. I was keeping my camera out of the rain until the final destination of White Bird.

The rain had either soaked or frozen my camera; it didn’t work anymore. All I got was the low battery warning. All the high-tech advantages of my Olympus Quickshooter Zoom had been instantly nullified. I knew that simpler technology of a mechanical camera would have survived the rain. I wasn’t about to be discouraged. I had the ultimate in simple and robust technology right at my fingertips. I took out my pen, and sketched the scenery. This turned out to be my only sketch for the entire trip.

Original journal pages.
My only sketch for the whole trip.

White Bird was so small, it didn’t even have a restaurant. Fortunately, it was large enough to have a motel and a general store. I sat in my $18 motel room, eating my dinner of rolls, crackers, and deviled ham, planning what I would do the next day. Fantasies of catching up with Stewart and Stephanie spun through my head. Stewart alone I could never catch. But perhaps Steph had slowed him down. Was she slow? I didn’t know. She was a pretty tough lady.

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